Why modern food brands evoke the intimacy of a cooking club

In the 1980’s in Belgrade, there were a number of state-owned bakery stores (“pekara”). One of them was in the building I grew up in, and it was operated, as it was wont in Belgrade bakeries at the time, by a family of Kosovo Albanians. Our pekara is still there, now owned and run by the two sons of the original operators. It is more than a place where someone goes to get…